Though seemingly benign,
their entry into fashion photography has rocked a few
old boats. Rizwan and Munazza, working as Deevees, are
two regular people doing fashion shoots - nothing unusual,
and nothing that has not been done before. If that be
it, why is the old guard of fashion photography trying
to pull down the iron curtain on this husband-wife duo?
One most apparent reason
is Rizwan and Munazza's rapid accession to a seminal status
of becoming the golden couple by giving the much-needed
lifeline to prosaic fashion photography. Instead of suppressing
yawns while flipping through glossy fashion magazines,
Deevees' work encourages turning of the next page with
excitement. But changing the old guard is not easy and
comes with a price.
In Deevees' case, the couple's
invasion into the world of photography has opened up a
major battle front. And, sallying forth the attack to
counter the couple's impact are some of Pakistan's top
photographers.
With poker-faced expressions
betrayed by remarks laced with sarcasm, Deevees' detractors
have started a campaign to nip their success. Calling
their work banal and common, the high priests of fashion
photography are desperately trying to underplay Deevees'
rise to fame. Dismissed as copies of Ather Shehzad, Deevees'
work is being described as a knock-off, giving way to
a major clash of interest between the followers of the
two camps.
Sitting at their house
in Model Town, Lahore, Rizwan Baig tries to balance his
three months old son on one knee and gives an affectionate
smile to Munazza. "It is not uncommon for newcomers
to face criticism. To tell you the truth, we welcome healthy
criticism if it's going to improve our work. But to say
that we copy others is unfair to us. If we had no originality
why would people who had been working with others change
loyalties and come to us instead? But we're here to work
and stay, not get involved in any petty controversy,"
says Rizwan.
The Ather Shehzad camp
claims that there is no worthwhile competition to even
so much as compare the husband-wife duo with fashion photography's
most acclaimed photographers. And yet, trying to play
down Deevees' ascent to fame has become the same camp
follower's end-of-the-day wind down. Quirking their eyebrows
to indicate maximum condescension, Ather Shehzad loyalists
miss no opportunity to go one up on Deevees. Some of them
go to the ludicrous level of total denial by saying: "Deevees?
Sounds familiar. Might have heard of them in passing but
never seen their work."
Other snide remarks of
these self-appointed fashion critics are, "Yes, we've
seen their work. It's the same as Ather Shehzad's when
they started their career. Deevees have yet to reach that
maturity, that class which comes out in Ather Shehzad's
work." Or so they think which does little to explain
why Deevees is seen as a threat if their work summons
little competition to those laying sole proprietary rights
to fashion photography.
To have heard them in passing
might be acceptable, but not to have seen their work is
difficult to absorb. Doing cover shots for nearly all
the major fashion magazines does not constitute 'hearing
them in passing'. What is even more of an indigestible
nature is that anyone in the same field, pitted against
a limited number of competitors, can hardly miss seeing
Deevees' work.
For starters, take stock
of this: Nearly every top model has faced Rizwan Baig
across his camera, helped in the transformation to glamour
by Munazza's make-up palette. Neha, the latest entrant
to modelling has become the most sought after published
face in fashion magazines. Deevees' photo shoots bring
out the model's natural naivete and poise rather than
relying on her sexuality. The couple's strength to leave
a lot to the imagination have fashion designers beelining
for Deevees to inject some long, overdue freshness into
a profession made almost bland by the stereotypical imagination
of a handful of photographers.
"Rizwan is the best
in this profession. He has vision and is imaginative.
What I like about him is that he does not expose my designs.
I had this problem with other photographers. The moment
my shoot was out in a magazine, all my designs would be
copied. I like the way he keeps the mystery in his shoots,"
says Beejee, Lollywood's leading designer. But, that is
not all to the talent of Deevees. Neither is Beejee the
only one to join the couple's club of admirers.
Classical designers of
Nilofer Shahid's Meeras admire the couple's confidence.
So do Shaiyanne Malik, Hasan Sheharyar of HSY, Karma,
Nicki and Nina and a host of other aces of the world of
fashion. "Deevees were 'amused' when Hasan Sheharyar,
a devout Ather Shehzad follower, contacted them for a
shoot at a time when Shehzad was out of country. What
do you say to that. Is that not changing lanes?"
quips an insider.
The couple's first shoot
five years back was a total disaster. At that time, Deevees
was a nonentity, as was Rizwan and Munazza's work. For
an entire year the couple slogged hard to improve till
they were asked to do their first shoot for Maria B. Deciding
not to work under their own name helped to give the couple
the much-required edge. "Deevees stands for 'dynamic
views'. Munazza and I were thinking of a signature name
and we both agreed on Deevees," explains the photographer.
The Maria B shoot was a
roaring success, giving them much-needed confidence. And
their career touched a further high when the two got married
four years ago. "I only had Rs95,000 and nothing
else. I didn't even have a place to call my own. But from
the time we got married our luck changed. I firmly believe
it is Munazza's luck that has brought us success,"
Rizwan reveals.
Using less of what is called
the flat-light technique, Deevees' reliance on outdoor
shoots gives them an edge over other photographers. Another
edge that the fashion photography's latest roll of honour
candidates enjoy is their experimentation with make-up,
hairstyles and light. Working from their home-based studio,
Deevees turns the unassuming status of the room into a
glamorous backdrop for models with the skilful interplay
of camera and make-up. The result is enough to threaten
fashion photography's conventional sages.
But Shehzad Reza insists
that Deevees roaring success has not displaced his position.
Sounding a bit piqued when asked to comment on the ongoing
battle to win loyalists between his camp and Deeves',
he retorted: "Why should we be in any way threatened
by Deevees? We have our own style and they have their
own. I have heard that they copy us, but that's okay with
us - we have to be good to be copied. And it is absolutely
untrue that I have ever stopped my models from working
with Deevees. The profession is big enough to accomodate
more than one photographer."
Of course, the profession
should have many photographers, but is it possible for
them to survive under the hawklike clutches of ungenerous
Methuselahs?
Munazza works with her
husband to fulfil her ambition to change the monotony
gripping our fashion photography. Her meeting with Rizwan
and subsequently falling in love is a story unto itself.
Coming from two diverse backgrounds, both of them felt
instantly drawn to each other when they first met at a
private studio of a professor teaching at the National
College of Art. Rizwan had just graduated from the Diyal
Singh College and wanted to study art. Finding Munazza
studying art at R.M. Naeem's studio struck a common chord
between the two. "I came from the lower middle class
and realized that I had to have a steady career if I wanted
to have a family with Munazza," says Rizwan.
The then 17-year-old Munazza
switched from architecture to graphic designing to study
the same course with 21-year-old Rizwan. By the time the
two graduated, Rizwan had decided to take up fashion photography.
"I took photography courses at the NCA, which is
why my shoots are technically better than the rest. Munazza
had a natural flair for drawing and wanted to experiment
with make-up. Whatever styling you see in our shoots is
all Munazza's work," continues Rizwan.
The fashion shoots in some
of Pakistan's leading fashion magazines reveal Munazza's
avant garde taste in hair and make-up. Using non-conventional
techniques to accentuate a model's contours, the make-up
artist plays with bold colours and earthy hues. "Unlike
others stylists, I don't rely on making the models look
just pretty. Depending upon the theme of the shoot, I
try to bring out their personality," reasons Munazza.
Call it luck or what have
you, but Deevees work is more than the good fortune of
a wife. The couple has major assignments lined up for
the season, most of which are cover shoots with the country's
finest models. Whatever the old guard thinks, Deevees
cannot be taken as a seasonal preference. It's time for
the sages of fashion photography to let fresh draught
in.