In the heart of Lahore's old city, near Delhi gate, stands Wazir Khan Mosque, surrounded by congested narrow streets, old buildings, shops, and the day-to-day hustle and bustle that is so typical of this area. The mosque was built in 1044 A.H (1634 A.D), by Hakim Ilmuddin Ansari, during Shah Jahan's reign. Historical records show that he was a physician who cured foot ailment one of Jahangir's wives was suffering from. Later, Shah Jahan made him his viceroy in Punjab and awarded him with the title of Wazir Khan. Once in a position of power, he went on to build several mosques, bazaars and palaces, particularly inside Tibbi Bazaar and Taxali Gate.

The Wazir Khan Mosque is considered to be a magnificent example of Mughal architecture, and is covered entirely with arabesque paintings and lacquered tiles. The colourful exterior and interior has been done up with mosaics and frescoes, geometric forms, floral designs, calligraphy and Quranic text. A strong Persian influence can be seen in its design and decoration as Persian artists supervised the local craftsmen.

One can see exquisite impressions depicting trees, flowers (such as daisies, lilies and sunflowers), clouds, grapevine, fruits and vases. Archaeologists and the common art lovers to the mosque can't help but be enchanted by the beauty of the architecture. The work is strictly inlay, not painted decoration. The richness of the designs, arabesque frescoes and superb calligraphy, having freshness in variety and colours, have had many admirers and makes this mosque a place worth visiting.

During a recent visited, the first sight of the mosque gave a rude shock. At the main gateway, goats were fastened and there was considerable muck that emitted a strong stink, to make one turn back even before entering the mosque's premises. Some children could be seen scratching the frescoes with sharp tools.

Rooms and corridors, with their vestibules, arches and doorways, were in a state of decay due to bad treatment. Some rooms had been rented out by the Auqaf, as one of the tenants told me. A room beside the prayer chamber was used as a store room, and it had frescoes that must have been beautiful once. But, alas, the walls were damaged and inlay work had been scrapped off at places, with many broken pieces of tiles lying in a corner. Cracks were visible on many parts of the floor.

Another part of the mosque that had lost its original grandeur was the exterior of south and north sides of prayer chamber, facing the bazaar. It clearly depicted the callous and indifferent attitude of the authorities towards the maintenance and restoration of the place. A couple of years back, the director of Auqaf said that work for preservation and rehabilitation would start soon, unfortunately no concrete measures have been taken as yet. Even, last year chief secretary Punjab, Hafiz Akhtar Randhawa received check of 348,000 rupees from American Ambassador Nancy J. Powel for restoration of this mosque.

Recently, there came a promising news that the provincial minister for religious affairs and Auqaf had resolved to get repair and rehabilitation work on the mosque under way. But, according to a Punjab Archaeology Department official, no measures seem to be forth coming.

A photographer once said that Marilyn Monroe was ideally photographed in the afternoon light, while Marlene Dietrich looked her best by candlelight. The same holds true for buildings. Taj Mahal gains its romantic appeal from the moonlight. As for Wazir Khan's Mosque, it should be seen in the setting sun, when tiles seem to glow and an exotic tinge is added to its surroundings.

One hopes that whatever is left of the original craftsmanship and grandeur of Wazir Khan Mosque will be preserved for the future generations before it is too late.